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August 7, 2025 Marti Eicholz The Odyssey left Kodiak, Alaska on July 26. We arrive in Hakodate, Japan on August 7th. We are days at sea cruising the ocean just short distances from earthquakes, tsunami alerts, and volcano eruptions. Being at sea is a safe place to be. Our days, filled with fog, reduced visibility, create a sense of isolation and mystery as the world fades into a soft, gray haze. The atmosphere is quiet and still, broken by an occasional foghorn, another vessel noise echoing across the water, or the gentle lapping of waves against the hull. Eerie quiet! Any sunlight is diffused by the fog, creating a soft, muted light that can make the sea and sky blend together. The Odyssey team masterfully manage navigational challenges, avoiding the potential for disorientation, losing sense of direction and spatial awareness, using slower speeds, reliance on instruments, and sound signals. Fog serves as a reminder of the unpredictable nature of the sea and the importance of respecting its power. Hokkaido comprises one-fifth of Japan's total land area, characterized by a cool climate with mountains and volcanoes along a central north-south spine. Much of Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost main island, is wild and unspoiled, with natural hot springs and volcanic lakes. This nature lover's paradise has vast national parks, rolling hills, volcanic landscapes, pristine coastlines, abundant wildlife (Shiretoko National Park) such as brown bears, foxes and deer, spectacular scenery, and world-renowned powder snow for skiing and snowboarding. It's home to the Ainu people. Explore the culture and traditions of the Indigenous Ainu people at Lake Akan and at the National Ainu Museum and Park. Who is the Ainu? In the early days of the Edo period, when feudal lords held power over Japan, Hokkaido did not even exist on the map. It was called Ezo, Japanese for “foreigner,” and was known as the home of the Indigenous Ainu people. As the Japanese gained control over southern regions like Hakodate, the Ainu lost negotiating power in trade and succumbed to diseases brought in by westerners like--smallpox. During the Meiji Restoration, Ezo was annexed and renamed Hokkaido, and the Ainu were forced to assimilate into Japanese society. In 2019 the Ainu were legally recognized as an Indigenous people by the Japanese government, but many Ainu lost their ancestry to generations of oppression. The Odyssey arrives early morning in Hakodate, Japan, docking at Wakamatsu Wharf downtown. Having been advised to take measures to prevent heatstroke as a heat wave gripping the country peaks over the next several days, we were pleasantly surprised to find low lying clouds full of moisture, air misty, and moderate temperature, no extreme heat today but lots of rain. After face-to-face immigration, fingerprints, and a photo shot, we are ready to disembark and begin our Hakodate exploration, utilizing the retro sightseeing tram system, a charming way to get around with its classic interior and exterior. Waterfront Hakodate is a port city, straddling a small peninsula, nestled at the southern tip of Hokkaido. Hakodate beautifully blends history, culture, and stunning natural landscapes. Mount Hakodate rises above the city at 1096 feet. The mountain's summit, accessible by cable car, offers spectacular night views. Mount Hakodate was originally an island that was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, forming a sand bar between Mount Hakodate and the peninsula. Up on Mount Hakodate, the way the land stretches across the water makes the view stunning. It is not the faraway city lights or the hordes of tourists superglued onto the railings. Hakodate, a pioneer in international trade, was Japan's first city port open to foreign trade in 1854, marking the end of Japan’s isolation policy and leading to a unique mix of Western and Japanese architectural styles as in the Motomachi district, a neighborhood of steep streets lined with Western-style buildings from the early 20th century including churches of all religions and architectural styles, with ancient government buildings in colonial style. I especially liked the Orthodox one with the convoluted copper domes. There is a pleasant view of the gulf from its courtyard. The massive concrete, lovely, designed Zen sanctuary Gokoku is peaceful and worth a visit. Strolling around Motomachi neighborhood, you learn how Hakodate became such a unique city. In Motomachi Park, there is a bronze statue of Commodore Matthew C. Perry, the man who ended Japan’s isolationist foreign policy, opening to foreign trade. Motomachi bears a subtly European aesthetic. Victorian lampposts line the immaculate cobble-stone streets, buildings are painted in pastel hues, and some homes feature elements of European design, like bay windows. Buildings were rebuilt after 1907, when a massive fire razed the city, the most recently in 1934. From the Motomachi neighborhood, ride the Mount Hakodate Ropeway. A panorama of the city unfolds. Consider hiking up and taking the Hakodate Ropeway down. The star-shaped Goryokaku Fort and Park, designed in a European style, was built in the mid-19th century to defend against potential attacks, a unique defensive structure. Goryokaku Park is most popular during springtime when it’s full of cherry blossoms. I imagine that mid-April it’s a fairytale place. To get a better view of the fort is from Goryokaku Tower with 360-degree panoramic views and historical exhibits, including detailed dioramas. Hakodate, Japan has a deep connection to squid, and it is evident everywhere. The city is nicknamed “Squid City,” stemming from a long history as a squid fishing port. The city mascot is an alien squid. Squid is in various forms, squid-themed items are common souvenirs, live ones at the market, squid ink ice cream, and dancing squid on your rice. Delicious cuisine with multilingual menus, featuring fresh seafood, local produce, and unique dishes like Sapporo ramen and creamy Hokkaido milk sweets, and numerous hot spring resorts, offer relaxation and rejuvenation. The Hakodate Morning Market is a heaven for seafood lovers, a place where you can find top-quality fresh and processed seafood changing hands, as well as fruit and vegetables from local farms. The Japanese take immense pride in their produce, sumptuous size and full flavor. Visit Hakodate Morning Market on an empty stomach. Try the fresh kaisendon, a seafood rice bowl, especially now that it’s the season for uni, a sea urchin. Or try squid fishing from a tank, and then the stall owner will turn your catch into a fresh ika somen, squid sashimi “noodles.” Note: the slices of squid will wriggle when you dip it in the soy sauce, due to spasms caused by the sodium. The grilled crab is yummy. Stroll and shop at Hakodate Bay Area, my favorite is strolling at street level, hearing the call of seagulls and feeling the gentle sea breeze. Each corner brings a new composition of land, sea, sky meeting and often completed by a couple walking together. At Hakodate Bay Area, you’ll see Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse. Back in 1859, when Hakodate port opened to international trade, this cluster of seven warehouses was crammed with marvelous imports from all over the world. Today, it’s a shopping arcade filled with restaurants and souvenir shops. No visit to Japan would be complete without an onsen (hot spring) experience. Hokkaido’s top onsen resort area, Yunokawa Onsen, is unique. It’s right next to the ocean with infinite sea views. Imagine soaking in an onsen while gazing out to the sea, the ultimate experience of tranquility. There are several public footbaths located around the city. I recommend visiting the Hakodate City Tropical Botanical Garden to catch the local Japanese macaques (snow monkeys) bathing in the garden’s hot spring pool. Hakodate’s seafood is incredible, but its top product, Hokkaido milk, meaning a must-have dessert, milk ice cream, locally known as soft cream. No one should leave Hakodate without indulging in “soft cream.” There is a street with so many ice cream shops that locals call it Soft Cream Street. One of the most dangerous places on Earth is the Ring of Fire, a horseshoe-shaped belt stretching over 25,000 miles around the Pacific Ocean, running through countries like Japan, Indonesia, the Philippines, New Zealand, the west coasts of North and South America, and even Antarctica. It is dangerous because the movement of massive tectonic plates collide, pull apart, or slide past each other in a constant struggle, generating immense pressure, eventually unleashing as powerful earthquakes or explosive volcanic eruptions. Not just a zone of destruction, but also geothermal energy supporting communities with volcanic soils nourishing rich ecosystems, and its landscapes like Mount Fuji and Chile’s volcanic fields. The Ring of Fire is where ninety percent of the world’s earthquakes strike. The Ring of Fire is where seventy-five percent of all active volcanoes are found. The Ring of Fire is dramatic, alive, and dynamic. Leaving our first port in Japan with its long, uphill roads, vintage tram, nice colored wood houses, relaxed atmosphere, and sea breeze, I feel like I’m leaving both Hakodate, Japan and San Francisco at the same time, they are so similar. Hakodate does have a unique blend of history, culture, and quirky charm. |
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