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August 30-31, 2025 Marti Eicholz Jeju Island, also known as Jeju-do, was formed two million years ago by a volcanic eruption underwater. It is a volcanic island with a unique geological history, featuring intricate lava tube systems, craters, and the iconic Hallasan mountain (the tallest mountain in South Korea), located off the southern coast of South Korea. Jeju is the largest island in South Korea and is recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site, a Global Geopark, and a Biosphere Reserve, highlighting its exceptional natural beauty. Pristine beaches and a vibrant coastline offer opportunities for relaxation and water activities, with vivid seascapes of coral below the surface. Numerous waterfalls cascade down the island's volcanic terrain, adding to its picturesque charm. Also called the “Hawaii of South Korea” because of its peaceful vibe, stunning beaches, beautiful waterfalls, volcanic landscapes, lush forest, breathtaking coastlines, and interesting traditions. The island’s climate is subtropical, with mild temperatures and high humidity throughout the year while Hawaii does not have a consistently subtropical climate; it is technically a tropical climate but also features subtropical characteristics, making it a blend of tropical and subtropical. Jeju Island boasts a distinct, unique culture, exemplified by the Haenyeo women divers and a tradition of shamanism. The island is home to the Haenyeo, or "sea women," famous Jeju women free divers without scuba gear, wearing wetsuits, flippers, goggles, and weighted vests, to harvest seafood like abalone, sea urchins, seaweed and octopus. They are an important symbol of Jeju's resilient culture, with a tradition of diving that dates back over a thousand years. A unique culture found on the island of Jeju, the women have overseen diving for seafood to provide for their families since the 17th century when many of the men were either conscripted to the army or had lost their lives at sea while fishing and when rulers imposed heavy taxes on men's labor, prompting the island's women to step up and become the primary wage earners. Most active Haenyeo, only around 4,500, are now in their 60s, 70s, and even eighties, as very few young women today choose this daunting career path. A 2025 study found unique genetic and training-related adaptations that help Haenyeo withstand the rigors of diving, such as improved blood pressure control. Researchers are interested in how these adaptations, which include better blood vessel constriction to conserve oxygen, might inform approaches to conditions like stroke and other blood pressure-related illnesses in the general population. With the current older demographic, Haenyeo may be the last generation of these divers, meaning the window to study their unique traits and traditions is closing. In search of solace from the island's challenging environment, Jeju developed a culture blending shamanism with natural elements. Shamanism is a spiritual practice in which a shaman enters a trance state, channeling spiritual energies into the physical world to communicate with spirits and the unseen world, acting as an intermediary to heal, divine, and influence events in the physical world. It is a cross-cultural path that involves a practitioner, often a healer, using the spirit world for guidance and to restore balance. Shamans are often healers and religious leaders who mediate between the community and the spiritual realm. Shamanism emphasizes each person's ability to access Spirit and spirits directly, without the need for a hierarchical structure. Shamanism is a spiritual path practiced worldwide, not a single organized religion with a single dogma or sacred book. Enjoy the island's unique cuisine, particularly the seafood, including abalone, conch, and seaweed, caught by the Haenyeo and dishes featuring local, flavorful black pork, a local delicacy known for its taste and quality, often served as a barbecue. The fertile volcanic soils support abundant citrus groves, particularly mandarins (Hanrabong tangerines), sweet and juicy, as well as other exotic fruits. Pheasants are plentiful on Jeju Island, so many different dishes use the bird, a real treat, eaten raw or dried as jerky. Pheasant buckwheat noodles blend buckwheat and pheasant meat. Horse cuisine was served to the King in times of antiquity. Horse is used in a variety of way, raw, sushi, sweet and sour, stew, roasted, or sliced, seasoned barbeque. Horse tastes lighter than beef. Hallasan erupted into the sea, forming Jusangjeolli Cliff. Check out the pillar rocks. They look like someone came in and carved them all. Enjoy the beaches. One of the best things to do in Jeju is head to the beach. Koreans wear T-shirts on top of their swimsuits. Do go chasing waterfalls. There are three main waterfall areas that are worth visiting in Jeju: Cheonjeyeon, three levels, so good for a little hike, Cheonjiyeon, good for photos, and Jeongbang, get close and into the water. Walk around Jeju Stone Park and embrace your inner geology nerd. It’s a place created by volcanic activity; stones play a key role in Jeju’s history and culture. The museum goes into more detail. Go underground to see the Manjanggul lava tube, the biggest and the best in the world. It’s dark and insanely quiet. Visit the traditional hanoks, characterized by rice straw roofs, at Seongeup Folk Village. Everything from homes to trees is historically significant. Wander the Bija Forest, the largest nutmeg forest with the oldest tree at eight hundred years old. The forest gives a boast to the immune system, breathing in the forest air. The absence of tall buildings, honking horns, and the general hustle and bustle creates a relaxing and tranquil atmosphere. The island's volcanic origins, characterized by Hallasan Mountain, lava tubes, and other unique formations, along with its beautiful beaches and forests, contribute to a sense of wonder and appreciation for nature. Jeju Island makes you feel a sense of peace and relaxation. My shipmates are enjoying every moment of every day, squeezing in adding overland tours like flying off to China, Beijing and more for a ten-day adventure. Yes, more than a dozen. Starr is in Sydney, excited, prepared, and ready to run the Sydney Marathon. And then, nearly one hundred, being in Jeju, are participating in a Korean barbecue. Being in Jeju and having Korean barbecue means enjoying the island's famous Jeju black pork, the star of the show. This local breed of black pig, a delicacy, provides uniquely tender and rich flavorful meat, a highlight of Jeju’s food culture. The experience is communal, hands-on-affair, where you cook thin slices of meat directly on the grill at the table, creating a smoky, caramelized flavor. A wide array of flavorful side dishes (banchans), including kimchi, fermented bean paste (ssamjang), and fresh vegetables, accompanies the meat. A traditional way to eat is to place meat and banchans in a fresh lettuce or sesame leaf, adding a dollop of ssamjang. Korean BBQ is a social experience while enjoying the smoky, savory taste with local drinks. It’s Sunday, the amazing Starr Davis is running the Sydney, Australia Marathon and the scattered Odyssey community is cheering her on. A successful run. A lovely finish line with the bridge and the Opera House. She jumps, hands high in the air, filled with joy and the ear-to-ear big smile greets us. Congratulations! We leave Jeju, South Korea, a place evoking wonder and awe due to its less frantic pace compared to bigger cities, and cruise back to Japan, a journey through the East China Sea to the vibrant city of Kagoshima. |
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