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October 11, 2025 Marti Eicholz The Odyssey left Cebu, Philippines toward our next port, Ternate Indonesia, cruising in a very active part of the Pacific “Ring of Fire”. During our time at sea, an earthquake 7.4 rocked the east coast of the southern end of the Philippines. Tsunami warnings went out for Indonesia and Palau. That danger has passed. Upon Odyssey’s arrival in Ternate, Indonesia, a wave of exhilaration and genuine warmth sweeps over us as we are greeted by the island’s welcoming residents, their faces alight with boundless smiles and hospitality. The sense of community and friendliness is palpable, instantly making us feel at home in this enchanting destination. Ternate, a compact volcanic island situated in Indonesia’s North Maluku province, known as the historical “Spice Islands,” is defined by its breathtaking landscape. The island is dramatically dominated by Mount Gamalama, a nearly perfect volcanic cone whose restless energy provides a striking backdrop of emerald hills and lush tropical forests. Along the coast, the island reveals its natural treasures: the picturesque black-sand beaches of Sulamadaha and Jikomalamo, where crystal-clear, tranquil waters invite you to swim, snorkel, and unwind. In the northwest, Tolire Lake captivates with its green-tinted waters, steep cliffs, and an air of mystery, rumored to be inhabited by crocodiles and offering a rare serenity for those seeking solitude. As part of the Pacific "Ring of Fire," Ternate is shaped by frequent volcanic eruptions and occasional earthquakes, giving rise to fertile soils and dramatic terrain. The island forms a trio with neighboring Hiri and Moti, both formidable stratovolcanoes, underscoring the region’s dynamic geological character. The tropical rainforest climate ensures abundant rainfall throughout the year, keeping the landscape vibrant and alive, while high temperatures contribute to the island’s lushness. Home to approximately 195,000 people, Ternate serves as the bustling provincial capital and commercial nucleus of North Maluku. Most of its settlements are nestled along the eastern and southern shores, where vibrant marketplaces and lively harbors reflect the island’s enduring role as a gateway for trade and cultural exchange. The history of Ternate is as rich and layered as its landscapes. Once a global epicenter for the valuable spice trade—especially cloves and nutmeg—the island became a focal point for European powers vying for control. The Portuguese, lured by the promise of spices, established a fort here, only to be expelled by a determined local sultan in the 16th century. Subsequent occupations by the Spanish and Dutch further shaped the island’s legacy, with the Dutch ultimately asserting dominance in the 17th century, leaving behind enduring marks of colonial influence. An exploration of Ternate’s cultural heritage leads to the Sultan’s Palace, now a museum, where intricately woven local fabrics adorned with symbolic motifs narrate stories of nature, tradition, and the island’s illustrious sultanate era. The Sultanate’s Memorial Museum invites visitors to delve even deeper into the region’s powerful past, displaying treasures such as the unique "Stampa" crown. This remarkable artifact is distinguished by a lock of living, growing human hair, revered and ceremonially cut for over five centuries, reflecting the island’s deeply rooted traditions and spiritual beliefs. Ternate’s prominence as a trading hub also made it one of the first places in the region to embrace Islam, a faith that has since become central to the island’s identity and daily life, shaping its vibrant culture and community customs. Adventure-seekers will find ample opportunities for exploration, from challenging treks up the slopes of Mount Gamalama, where climbers are rewarded with breathtaking views from the crater rim to tranquil moments spent on the island’s unique beaches. For a taste of Ternate’s aromatic legacy, you can wander through clove plantations that once propelled the island to the forefront of global trade and wealth. Beneath the waves, Ternate’s surrounding waters offer a diver’s paradise. Brilliant coral gardens, dramatic volcanic formations, and an astonishing diversity of marine life await those who venture below the surface, promising underwater adventures that are as unforgettable as the island itself. In every sense, Ternate is a vibrant tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty, inviting discovery at every turn. Step back in time by visiting the remnants of Ternate's colonial era at Fort Tolukko, Fort Kalamata, Fort Oranje, and Fort Santiago. These imposing fortresses underscore the island’s strategic importance and storied role in the centuries-old competition for control of the spice trade. Soak in the local atmosphere at Dermaga Pelabuhan Ternate, the bustling port and pier, where you can witness the rhythms of daily life and observe the vibrant interactions among community members as they go about their work and leisure. Marvel at the natural wonder of Lake Tolire Besar, a unique volcanic lake nestled within a crater, renowned not only for its striking scenery but also for the fascinating myths and legends that surround it. Experience the dramatic landscape of Batu Angus Ternate, where fields of "scorched rocks" serve as a living testament to the powerful eruptions of Mount Gamalama that have shaped the island’s history and terrain. Immerse yourself in Ternate’s spiritual and cultural heritage by visiting the Al Munawwaroh Ternate Great Mosque, a prominent religious landmark where the local Islamic culture comes to life through prayer, community gatherings, and traditional ceremonies. For a change of pace, embark on a day trip to Dodola Island, where you can enjoy a leisurely picnic and a relaxed escape from the hustle and bustle of the mainland. Gain deeper insight into Ternate’s historical significance as a center of the spice trade with a visit to the Gambesi Clove Farm. Here, you learn about the cultivation and processing of cloves, as well as the enduring legacy of this precious commodity in shaping the region’s identity and economy. The area is also celebrated for its unique woven fabric, distinguished by its intricate patterns, vibrant colors, and luxurious touches of gold or silver, reflecting the artistic richness and cultural pride of the local people. In summary, Ternate evokes a feeling of being immersed in a world of potent natural forces, significant history, and genuine human connection. |
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