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November 22-24, 2025 Marti Eicholz We embark on an extraordinary journey with "The Odyssey," a two-day open-water voyage that takes us from the historic Tulagi Harbor in the Solomon Islands to the vibrant shores of Luganville, Vanuatu. Cruising through the Melanesian region, the sea beneath us is alive with intricate coral gardens, the haunting remains of WWII wrecks, and an abundance of marine life. Our destination, Luganville, promises a gateway to the diverse and colorful culture of Vanuatu, a nation renowned for its dynamic music, traditional dance, and skilled craftsmanship. While in Vanuatu, we marvel at remarkable natural attractions such as the mesmerizing blue holes, natural, crystal-clear freshwater swimming pools formed by underground streams emerging from limestone caves, located in lush rainforests, known for their luminous waters, stunningly clear, vibrant blue/turquoise water, making it possible to see the bottom even at great depths, and even active volcanoes that define the dramatic landscape. As with all remote and culturally rich destinations, it’s essential to approach every experience with respect and sensitivity. Embracing local customs—such as dressing modestly in villages by covering shoulders and knees, seeking permission before photographing people or sacred sites, removing shoes before entering homes, and showing deference to elders by removing hats and sunglasses when speaking with them—ensures a meaningful and positive connection with the community. Luganville itself is nestled on the southeastern coast of Espiritu Santo, the largest island in the Vanuatu archipelago. As the second largest city in the country, it is surrounded by a landscape of rugged mountains, expansive coastal plains, unspoiled beaches, and crystal-clear waters. Towering above is Mount Tabwemasana, the highest peak in Vanuatu, while the region enjoys a tropical rainforest climate with distinct wet and dry seasons. This captivating city is a harmonious blend of historical intrigue and natural beauty, offering a laid-back atmosphere that contrasts with the busier areas of Vanuatu. Luganville's streets are easy to navigate, and its legacy as a major WWII American military base is woven into its identity. Remnants from the war abound, including the fascinating Million Dollar Point—where American forces discarded vast quantities of supplies, vehicles, and equipment into the sea, now transformed into an unusual yet popular dive site. The city’s main thoroughfare, Boulevard Higinson, is notably wide, a result of the base commander’s directive that it be broad enough to accommodate four tanks side by side. During the war, Luganville was the second-largest American base in the Pacific, and many of its roads, from paved streets to dirt tracks, are a testament to that era. Just offshore lies one of the world’s most famous wreck dives: the SS President Coolidge, a luxury liner turned troopship that struck mines in 1942. Today, it serves both as an underwater museum for divers and as a poignant memorial to Captain Elwood Euart, who sacrificed his life attempting to save others. We also explore the striking Blue Holes—vivid freshwater pools like Riri Blue Hole and Matevulu Blue Hole, perfect for a refreshing swim in their surreal blue waters. For adventurers, the Millennium Cave beckons as Vanuatu’s largest cave, offering a challenging trek through dense rainforest, river crossings, swimming, and canyoning. Other natural highlights include scenic river floats, the serene Mount Hope Waterfall, and the idyllic Champagne Beach, famed for its soft white sand and turquoise waters. Divers and snorkelers are drawn to Million Dollar Point, where the underwater world is littered with WWII equipment, creating a unique and fascinating marine environment. To fully immerse oneself in the culture, attend traditional dance performances and explore local crafts at the Cultural Activity Center. The Leweton Cultural Village offers deeper insight into local customs and showcases traditional water music, while the South Pacific WWII Museum is dedicated to preserving and sharing the military history of the region. Strolling along Luganville’s main road, you’ll enjoy waterfront views, the bustle of the local market filled with fresh seafood, locally produced chocolate, and other delicacies. Boutiques, cozy cafes, and lively kava bars invite you to relax and savor the town’s welcoming, easy-going atmosphere. You ask, “What is a kava bar?” A kava bar is a social hub that serves the traditional, mildly calming drink kava with an earthy, peppery taste, often alongside coffee, snacks, and sometimes live music. These bars are typically laid-back and rustic, with a welcoming atmosphere that encourages locals and visitors to mingle. They are central to the local culture, providing an authentic experience where visitors can learn about Vanuatu's customs and relax after a day of sightseeing. For a different perspective, consider exploring the area on horseback, winding through lush plantations, charming villages, and even splashing across shallow waters. This unique activity lets one truly immerse themselves in the natural beauty and rich culture of the region. Although Luganville is known as a tourist destination, it also plays a vital role as an export center for prized local commodities such as coffee, cacao, and tuna. The vibrant community is nestled in a breathtaking landscape where history and nature blend seamlessly. You are welcomed with genuine warmth by the locals, and can enjoy pristine beaches, sparkling clear waters, and verdant scenery that together create a laid-back, authentic atmosphere. During our stay in Luganville, we find ourselves in the midst of a new moon phase—a powerful period for reflection and renewal. The intense, transformative energy of this lunar cycle invites us to reset, release lingering pain or grievances, and embrace the opportunity for a fresh start. Under the influence of the Scorpio New Moon, we are encouraged to break free from old patterns, try new experiences, and step beyond our comfort zones. This celestial event inspires us to view life from a different perspective and to welcome new possibilities with open hearts. Living aboard the Odyssey enhances this sense of exploration and growth, offering us daily chances to see the world in new ways and embark on novel experiences. As we prepare to set sail for our next destination, anticipation builds for the adventures that lie ahead, reminding us that each day brings the promise of discovery and renewal. |
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