40 years ago I stayed here for 12 days :

Beachcomber Island

 

December 2-3, 2025

Marti Eicholz

Sailing from Lautoka to Port Denarau is a short and sheltered journey, with gentle southeast winds guiding our way. The tropical climate embraces us with warmth and humidity, and there is always a chance for a refreshing shower. As the Odyssey arrives in the early morning, we are greeted by local pilots who expertly guide us to our anchorage. The anticipation builds as we prepare to board the tender and step ashore. The surrounding waters, part of an intricate reef system, create a breathtaking tropical backdrop that immediately sets the scene for our adventure.

Denarau welcomes us with open arms, its rhythmic Fijian music and the cheerful "bula" greeting fostering an instant sense of ease and hospitality. The term "Bula" is deeply rooted in Fijian culture, symbolizing not only a warm "hello" but also a heartfelt wish for life, good health, happiness, and positive energy. Used at any time of day and even as a substitute for "cheers," a simple "Bula!" is the most common expression, while "Ni sa bula vinaka" offers a more formal welcome for special occasions. This spirit of hospitality is felt everywhere, making us feel like honored guests.

Situated on the western coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island, Denarau is a unique resort enclave. Unlike a natural island, Denarau was carefully developed in the late 1960s from reclaimed mangrove swamps, now spanning 684 acres of lush tropical gardens and luxury resorts. Conveniently connected to the mainland by a causeway, Denarau does not have a permanent residential population but thrives as part of the broader, vibrant Nadi community, which numbers over 59,000 people. The island’s staff and residents are closely integrated with Nadi, adding to the authentic Fijian experience.

At the heart of Denarau lies Port Denarau Marina, the gateway for ferry transport to iconic destinations like the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands. The marina is more than just a transit point; it boasts a curated selection of high-quality shopping and dining options, as well as unique attractions such as the Big Bula Waterpark, featuring giant slides and fun-filled obstacle courses that delight.

Denarau itself feels like a tranquil oasis, perfectly balancing relaxation with adventure. Navigating the island is a breeze thanks to the cheerful Bula bus service, which conveniently connects all the resorts and the marina, making every journey part of the experience. You can indulge in a wealth of water-based activities, from leisurely cruises and sailing excursions to snorkeling amid vibrant coral reefs. For those seeking cultural enrichment or relaxation, the Garden of the Sleeping Giant showcases over 2,000 varieties of orchids in a spectacular garden setting, while the nearby Sabeto Hot Springs offer the chance to unwind in natural thermal pools and mud baths.

Sports enthusiasts will appreciate the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, an 18-hole championship golf course surrounded by lush, tropical scenery and featuring creative bunkers shaped like marine creatures. The club also offers advanced practice facilities and tennis courts.

Thrill-seekers can make a splash at the Big Bula Waterpark or embark on an array of aquatic adventures such as snorkeling, scuba diving, and deep-sea fishing charters. Embark on an unforgettable day trip to the breathtaking nearby islands, where you can immerse yourself in crystal-clear waters, relax on pristine beaches, and soak in the serene surroundings. For the adventurous, scuba diving at the renowned Malolo Barrier Reef offers a glimpse of vibrant marine life and stunning coral formations beneath the surface. Alternatively, experience the mesmerizing beauty of Fiji from above by taking a scenic helicopter tour, providing panoramic views of the lush landscapes and turquoise waters that define this tropical paradise.

As evening falls, enjoy the lively atmosphere at Port Denarau, where nightly cultural performances bring the traditions of Fiji to life through music, dance, and storytelling. Hosted productions like "Fiji Untold" deliver a Broadway-style spectacle, tracing the rich tapestry of Fijian history and mythology through vibrant choreography and music.

For a deeper connection to local culture, take time to visit a traditional Fijian village to gain insight into daily life and ancestral customs. Here, you might join a kava ceremony—a cornerstone of Fijian hospitality—or explore spiritual sites like the Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple in Nadi. For history enthusiasts, a trip to the Momi Battery Historical Park provides an opportunity to delve into Fiji’s World War II heritage, complete with preserved gun emplacements and sweeping coastal views.

For a truly unique outing, visit a floating bar such as Cloud 9 or Seventh Heaven. These remarkable venues, anchored in the heart of the ocean, offer a one-of-a-kind setting for savoring drinks, dining on delectable cuisine, and enjoying world-class snorkeling right off the deck.

For art lovers, Sigavou Studios presents an incredible opportunity to discover the artistry behind masi, or tapa cloth. Here, you can not only observe the creation of these traditional barkcloth textiles—crafted from the inner bark of trees like the paper mulberry—but also try your hand at making your own. The intricate designs, painted with natural pigments, tell stories of family, nature, and Fijian heritage. Locally crafted masi pieces are available at handicraft shops, perfect as meaningful souvenirs or decorative accents, and are prized for both their ceremonial significance and aesthetic beauty. The painstaking process of making masi involves soaking and pounding the bark into a supple cloth, then painstakingly adorning it with symbolic motifs, often geometric, that reflect the culture, mythology, and everyday experiences of the Fijian people.

As our remarkable journey in Denarau comes to an end, we are left with indelible memories: the embrace of Fijian hospitality, the awe-inspiring vistas, and a harmonious blend of relaxation and adventure, exhilarating helicopter rides, thrilling ziplining experiences through the forest canopy, and peaceful horseback rides along sun-drenched beaches. Denarau is more than just a destination—it is an enduring feeling of welcome, discovery, and renewal that will remain with us long after we leave its sun-kissed shores.

Now, with the Odyssey’s engines roaring and our pilots standing by, we prepare to set course for our next thrilling adventure in Savusavu, Fiji, carrying with us the spirit and stories of Denarau.

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