Marti Eicholz

Reflections on, a Childhood Shaped by History
I entered the world in December 1939, a pivotal moment in history, marked by great uncertainty and change. Born during an era of scarcity, my earliest memories are colored by the aftermath of the Great Depression and the looming shadow of World War II. My generation was shaped by the hardships we faced—we knew the sting of ration books, the fear of polio, the importance of saving every scrap of tin foil, and the tradition of reusing items like Christmas wrapping paper year after year. Nothing was ever tossed aside, as everything held value and purpose.
I recall the daily strolls through the meadow with my father to milk our lone cow, gathering eggs the chickens laid, and tending the backyard garden. Life was simple, focused on essentials, and guided by strict discipline enforced both at home and in school. There was little tolerance for excuses; respect and responsibility were learned young. Imagination was my companion and playground—I created adventures outside, drawing inspiration from family stories, radio broadcasts, or simply the limitless possibilities within my mind. With no television to distract us, evening meals were spent gathered around the radio, the family listening intently to the latest news or enjoying comedic and dramatic programs.
Technology was a luxury and rarely taken for granted. Telephones were shared among neighbors, calculators required manual effort, and newspapers delivered the world’s events each morning. Ideas and stories were captured on typewriters, their rhythm clacking a familiar soundtrack in many homes.
Yet, my childhood felt secure, brimming with hope. The world seemed bright, free from modern anxieties like terrorism, environmental crises, or the complexities of the internet. It was a period defined by optimism, innovation, and a belief in progress.
I belong to a generation that witnessed remarkable transformations—when black-and-white televisions were marvels of technology, highways resembled winding country roads rather than bustling motorways, and shopping was a cherished event that meant strolling through the heart of downtown. It was a time that shaped not only my values and memories but also the very foundation of the world we know today.
Ageless at Heart: Celebrating the Spirit Within
Although my age may suggest otherwise, I truly don’t feel old inside. At heart, I’m still that young girl, eager and full of wonder, who’s simply gathered many years of memories along the way. Life has generously gifted me with a tapestry of experiences, each one shaping my perspective and deepening my appreciation for every new day. Regardless of how many birthdays I’ve celebrated, I continue to wake up feeling profoundly grateful—grateful for the love I’ve shared, the wisdom I’ve gained through both triumphs and hardships, and the endless joys that life reveals. Age might be a number marked on a calendar, but the essence of who I am—my spirit—remains vibrant and untarnished by time. Today, my celebration goes beyond counting years; it’s about honoring the beautiful moments, the laughter, and the connections that make life truly exquisite and meaningful.

December 9-10, 2025 – Levuka, Fiji

Marti Eicholz

Our journey aboard the Odyssey took us from Leleuvia Island to Levuka, traversing the Koro Sea and the Rewa Delta area during Fiji’s vibrant summer, which also marks the height of cyclone season. Throughout the crossing, the sea conditions ranged from moderate to rough, with steady southeast winds that occasionally escalated into strong gusts, bringing with them sizable swells and intermittent rain. Such unpredictable weather demands constant attention and skillful navigation from our captain and crew, ensuring both our safety and comfort as we sail these storied waters.

Arriving in Levuka, Fiji’s first colonial capital, we were greeted by a town rich in both history and natural beauty. Nestled on the rugged eastern coast of Ovalau Island, Levuka is dramatically positioned between towering, forested volcanic hills and the open sea. The town is characterized by its lush, tropical environment, steep volcanic slopes, and intricate coral reefs, all under a climate that remains warm, humid, and breezy throughout the year. During our visit, the weather was hot and overcast, typical for the season. Despite its small size—with a population ranging from 1,500 to 3,000—Levuka boasts a vibrant and diverse community, including Indigenous Fijians, part-Europeans, Chinese, and Indians, all bound together by a shared connection to the town’s colonial legacy and thriving tuna industry.

Levuka’s unique location, wedged tightly between lush, waterfall-draped mountains and the sea, limits its physical expansion and preserved its distinctive historical character. The town’s weathered weatherboard buildings and narrow streets evoke an authentic “frozen in time” atmosphere, offering a rare window into Fiji’s early colonial era. Here, European architectural styles blend seamlessly with the island’s rugged landscape and indigenous influences, creating a setting unlike any other in the Pacific.

Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Levuka stands as an exceptional example of a well-preserved 19th-century Pacific port settlement. Its timber-framed structures, unique town layout, and rustic, Mediterranean ambiance—complete with narrow lanes and a languid “Fiji Time” pace—set it apart from more commercialized destinations. The town is a living museum, featuring colonial architecture, a storied past as a rogue port, and a vibrant blend of cultural attractions and natural wonders. You can stroll along picturesque Beach Street, home to many Fijian “firsts,” such as the historic Royal Hotel (the oldest in the South Pacific) and the Morris Hedstrom store. The Levuka Museum, housed in an old storehouse, offers engaging exhibits on colonial history, while the Deed of Cession site marks the exact spot where Fiji was formally ceded to Britain in 1874. Other highlights include the first public school, nestled in a lush valley; a climb of 199 steps to Mission Hill, passing by charming historic buildings and culminating in panoramic views; the Gothic Revival Sacred Heart Cathedral, dating to the 1860s; and the origins of Fiji’s first newspaper, the Fiji Times. Adventurous shipmates hike to scenic waterfalls and lookout points such as Bishop’s Tomb, and experience local life at the Ovalau Club—the first private members’ club in Fiji. The town is also known for its pioneering institutions, including the first bank, post office, town hall, and public electricity system, all contributing to its enduring “time capsule” charm. Iconic sites like the Royal Hotel, dramatically nestled between the mountains and the Pacific, further enhance Levuka’s unique appeal.

Surrounded by rugged mountains, cascading waterfalls, and vibrant coral reefs, Levuka offers a picturesque tropical backdrop that feels as though it has remained untouched by time. The 19th-century colonial buildings lining Beach Street evoke memories of a wilder, frontier era—like a gold rush town that never faded away but instead found tranquility and charm. The town’s peaceful, idyllic environment and slow pace invite us to relax and immerse themselves fully in its authentic atmosphere.

Levuka’s port serves as a gateway to this remarkable UNESCO heritage town, functioning both as a bustling fishing port and a portal to Fiji’s layered colonial history. Visiting Levuka truly feels like stepping back in time to discover the “real Fiji”—a place where rich history, welcoming locals, and lush scenery combine to create a serene escape, far removed from the trappings of modern tourism. The Odyssey now stands ready to embark on its next journey, a two-day cruise from Fiji to Apia, carrying with it the memories of Levuka’s living history and enduring charm.

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