April 7–8, 2025

Marti Eicholz

Last November 14, The Odyssey made a brief stop in Bridgetown, Barbados, docking to gather essential supplies and refuel before continuing its journey. Today, as we return to the port of Bridgetown, the purpose of our stay is much the same — restocking provisions, obtaining equipment and spare parts for vital upgrades, and collecting mail and packages for residents. However, this visit also allows for some time to explore the city’s unique character and historical richness.

The Careenage, a charming and tranquil waterfront area lined with inviting shops and cozy cafes, offers a picturesque setting. Yet, beneath its serene facade lies a somber history: in centuries past, enslaved Africans were brought ashore here after arduous transatlantic journeys and cruelly auctioned off to the highest bidder. Today, a commemorative plaque stands as a poignant tribute to the endurance and resilience of those who suffered through this dark chapter of history.

The Caribbean, and particularly Barbados, played a pivotal role as a major crossroads in the transatlantic slave trade. Known as the “Crown Jewel” of the British Empire, Barbados flourished economically thanks to its sugar exports, earning it the distinction of being the wealthiest colony in North America during the height of colonial rule. Its strategic location as the easternmost island in the Caribbean made it the logical first port of call for British ships arriving from Europe and Africa. This made Barbados a key entry point for thousands of enslaved Africans, many of whom were put to work in the island’s sugar fields or transported to other colonies in the region.

Golden Square Freedom Park stands as a testament to this complex legacy. The park honors not only the history of the slave trade but also the courageous protests and ongoing movements for social equality that have shaped modern Barbados. A particularly moving feature is the Builders of Barbados Wall, which bears the surnames of everyone who has lived on the island throughout its six-hundred-year history, serving as a powerful reminder of the enduring spirit of the Barbadian people.

Since taking office in 2018, Prime Minister Mia Mottley has emerged as a transformative leader for Barbados. She inaugurated Golden Square Freedom Park in 2021 and has spearheaded several key initiatives, including the Beautify Barbados Program aimed at revitalizing public spaces, introducing a digital nomad visa to attract remote workers, negotiating with Hyatt to develop a new property that will help rejuvenate the capital, and leading international efforts for climate-related funding for Caribbean nations at the United Nations. Her vision and determination continue to inspire both her country and the wider region.

National Heroes Square, shaded by graceful trees and adorned with a clam-shell fountain, presents a tranquil scene today, yet it harbors a painful history. Once, it was the site where plantation owners subjected their slaves to public humiliation, such as floggings and imprisonment in cages. In contemporary Barbados, the square is revered as a shrine to the memory of ancestors who endured these injustices. Also located in the square is the Cenotaph, a solemn monument honoring Barbadian soldiers who fell during World War I and II.

Dominating the northern edge of National Heroes Square are the impressive Victorian-era Parliament Buildings. Constructed of pale coral limestone in the Neo-Gothic style of the 1870s, these buildings feature a stately clock tower on the west wing and beautifully crafted stained-glass windows on the east. They continue to serve as the seat of government and remain a symbol of Barbados’s enduring parliamentary tradition.

Just a two-minute walk from the Parliament Buildings stands St. Michael’s Anglican Cathedral, which dates back to 1789. The cathedral is renowned for housing one of the largest pipe organs in the region, and its exquisite stained-glass windows create a mesmerizing play of colors across the chapel’s interior, enhancing its serene atmosphere.

As the capital and largest city of Barbados, Bridgetown enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status and sits gracefully on the harbor of Carlisle Bay. The city is celebrated for its remarkably well-preserved colonial architecture and deep historical significance. It offers a vibrant blend of culture, history, and urban energy. Bridgetown is also conveniently close to stunning beaches, particularly those of Carlisle Bay — known for their gentle, clear waters and abundant marine life. With the weather expected to remain dry and pleasantly warm, and the original street layout still intact, the city’s compact downtown makes it easy and enjoyable to explore on foot.

Barbados is renowned for its pristine, powdery white sands and dazzling, crystal-clear seas, earning a reputation as the jewel of the Caribbean. Unlike many of its neighboring islands, which are characterized by rugged terrain and dramatic mountain ranges, Barbados boasts a gently rolling, flat landscape that sets it apart. The island’s west coast stretches for twenty-one glorious miles, offering an uninterrupted ribbon of sun-drenched beaches and vibrant, jewel-toned waters that beckon visitors and locals alike. While these beaches are celebrated for their natural beauty and lively atmosphere, they also reflect a subtle social hierarchy that shapes the experience for different groups.

St. James Beach epitomizes luxury and exclusivity, attracting the Caribbean Elite with its sophisticated ambiance reminiscent of Beverly Hills. This glamorous enclave is a magnet for those seeking an upscale retreat, where high-end resorts and elegant beach clubs provide an indulgent escape. In contrast, Carlisle Bay, home to Browne’s Beach, is a bustling hub for cruise ship passengers — here, vacationers test their sea legs, enjoy unlimited beers and piña coladas, and take advantage of abundant beach amenities. The scene is lively and energetic, filled with sunseekers eager to make the most of their time ashore.

As the afternoon wanes and the cruise ships depart, a transformation takes place: the beach is reclaimed by locals, or Bajans, who cherish the island’s natural treasures as much as any visitor. Mothers bring their infants to play in the gentle surf, older children engage in spirited games of soccer, young men gather for workouts, and seasoned men relax at beachside bars, sharing stories over bottles of Carib beer. This daily ritual speaks to the prosperity and communal spirit of Barbados — when people care about their home, they take pride in nurturing and safeguarding its beauty.

St. Lawrence Gap caters to the independent traveler, offering a vibrant stretch lined with sidewalks and an eclectic mix of restaurants. It’s a culinary hotspot, where visitors can sample local flavors and international cuisine in a lively, welcoming atmosphere. For those seeking a more laid-back experience, Rainbow Beach provides a down-to-earth haven. With a casual restaurant anchoring one end and rugged cliffs framing the other, it’s a favorite among both locals and visitors, including many cruise ship crew members who appreciate its relaxed vibe.

The road leading to Bathsheba, a charming small town, winds along the wild and rugged East Coast. Here, the powerful Atlantic Ocean crashes against dramatic cliffs, and the route meanders through golden sugar cane fields before descending sharply to the shoreline. The journey is not for the faint of heart — those who brave the twists and turns, and perhaps a bit of car sickness, are rewarded with breathtaking vistas of lush tropical foliage, towering cliffs, and massive waves that make Bathsheba a world-renowned destination for professional surfers.

Barbados is also famous for its population of wild green monkeys, which were originally brought to the island from Africa over three centuries ago. To observe these fascinating creatures and a variety of other wildlife, the Barbados Wildlife Reserve is a must-visit. The reserve conducts two feedings daily at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., pouring copious amounts of fresh fruit into troughs while an array of zoo animals gather to feast. Monkeys, ever resourceful, perch on the backs of turtles to reach coveted red grapes before darting off to the trees, while goats and chickens contentedly consume whatever is available.

Beyond its beaches and wildlife, Barbados offers a wealth of other attractions. Adventurers can explore vibrant coral reefs while snorkeling or embark on a thrilling submarine dive to the ocean floor. History enthusiasts will admire the island’s beautifully restored mansions, each surrounded by lush tropical gardens that evoke a sense of old-world grandeur. For those intrigued by natural wonders, a subterranean cavern complex awaits, accessible by tram and offering a glimpse into the island’s geological marvels. Whether seeking relaxation, adventure, or cultural enrichment, Barbados promises an unforgettable experience.

Barbados is celebrated as the birthplace of rum, boasting an impressive array of hundreds of unique varieties and the ever-popular rum punch. Yet, the island’s allure extends far beyond its spirited beverages; it is also renowned for its refined afternoon tea culture. This elegant tradition, introduced during the colonial era by affluent British plantation owners and high-ranking military officers, continues to thrive today. Visitors can relish classic afternoon teas in enchanting settings — imagine sipping tea in an open-air courtyard, enveloped by lush tropical greenery, where the gentle breeze and fragrant flora create a truly memorable experience.

No visit to Barbados would be complete without acknowledging the historical significance of George Washington House. At the age of nineteen, George Washington spent several months here with his older half-brother, who was battling tuberculosis. The very house they resided in has since been converted into a fascinating museum. Guests are invited to watch an engaging twenty-minute docudrama, which offers a blend of historical insight and humor; one particularly amusing scene depicts the young Washington diving for coral, surfacing with a sudden spark of revolutionary fervor — a moment that never fails to evoke laughter from the audience.

Another must-see attraction is the childhood home of Barbados’s own global superstar, Rihanna. Fans can visit her humble beginnings — a quaint bungalow situated on the aptly named “Rihanna Drive.” For a glimpse into her current lifestyle, one may also catch a view of her luxurious beachfront mansion at One Sandy Lane, located on the pristine St. James Beach.

Due to a scheduled maintenance window for our onboard navigation equipment, specifically the Electronic Chart Display and Information System (ECDIS), our stay in Barbados will be extended until the following morning. This necessary pause provides ample time for a comprehensive system reboot and the completion of all essential updates, ensuring our navigation remains safe and reliable throughout the voyage.

With the Odyssey resting overnight, we have an unexpected opportunity to further explore Bridgetown, fondly known as “The Pulsing Heart of Barbados.” As the island’s sole city, Bridgetown may be small in size, but it overflows with vibrant life and colorful charm. Our second visit revealed even more hidden gems and countless opportunities for exploration. I’ll always remember Bridgetown as a picturesque seaside town, complete with a lively promenade and an array of elegant yachts bobbing along the waterfront — an image that encapsulates the warmth and spirit of Barbados.

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