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November 28-29, 2025 Marti Eicholz As we cruised between Mystery Island and Suva, Fiji, the day unfolded at sea with the Odyssey riding tall, rolling waves. The ship rocked and swayed beneath a vast, brilliant blue sky dotted with fluffy, puffy clouds, while the sun shone brightly overhead. It was Thanksgiving Day, our hearts overflowing with gratitude. The festive mood was palpable as we shared a traditional Thanksgiving Dinner complete with all the trimmings, evoking cherished memories of celebrations past with family and friends. This time, however, we are surrounded by our new extended family aboard the Odyssey—fellow shipmates sharing this unique experience. Thanksgiving Day has passed, yet as we journey toward new horizons, the sense of gratitude remains with us. The passage from Mystery Island to Suva marks a striking transformation in scenery and atmosphere. Mystery Island, nestled in Vanuatu, is the quintessential tropical paradise—remote and uninhabited, graced with pristine white-sand beaches, gently swaying palms, and clear aquamarine waters. Upon arrival in Suva, the capital and largest city of Fiji, the scene shifts dramatically. The sky is full of low-hanging, heavy, shades of gray clouds that look like round mounds of cotton, dense and mysterious, casting a soft, diffused light over the bustling port. The air is warm and humid, carrying the promise of tropical rain, but the weather doesn’t hamper our excitement to be here. With our spirits high and curiosity piqued, we step off the ship, ready to explore the vibrant culture and lush landscapes. The tranquility and natural beauty invite a sense of relaxation and wonder. Located on the island of Viti Levu, Suva is a vibrant, bustling urban center that stands in stark contrast to the peaceful isolation of Mystery Island. Here, the energy is lively and cosmopolitan, blending modernity with tradition. We explore colorful local markets, admire government buildings, and experience a rich cultural tapestry reflecting both global influences and ancient island heritage. Suva’s dynamic character showcases the diverse, modern face of the South Pacific. Fiji itself consists of 332 islands, though only 110 are inhabited. Despite the vast number of islands, land accounts for just 10% of Fiji’s total territory, the rest being ocean. The two largest islands, Vanua Levu and Viti Levu, are home to approximately 87% of the population, which exceeds 900,000. Land ownership in Fiji is unique, with around 90% classified as Taukei, belonging to Indigenous Fijians and divided by clan. Only 8% of land is privately owned, while the remaining 2% is government property. This system reflects the deep cultural roots and traditions of the Fijian people. Fiji is celebrated as the “soft coral capital of the world.” The region around Cousteau boasts 390 distinct coral species spread across 10,000 square kilometers of vibrant reefs, making it a haven for marine life with over 1,000 species of fish inhabiting these colorful underwater landscapes. Suva is situated on a hilly peninsula in the southeastern part of Viti Levu, bordered by Suva Harbor to the west and Laucala Bay to the east. The city enjoys a hot, humid tropical climate year-round, with frequent rainfall courtesy of moist trade winds. With a population estimated at 101,166, Suva serves as a key port and the hub of Fiji’s commercial, political, and administrative activities. Its cityscape blends modern high-rises with colonial-era architecture, offering a unique mix of historical and contemporary influences. Notably, Suva is recognized as the only world capital situated within a tropical rainforest, further enhancing its ecological and cultural distinction. The city’s history and colonial past have fostered a diverse population, including a significant Indo-Fijian community. English, Fijian, and Hindi are the three official languages spoken here, underscoring the multicultural character of Fiji’s capital. The concept known as "Fiji Time" embodies a laid-back and relaxed perspective on punctuality, reflecting the easygoing lifestyle cherished by locals. Time in Fiji moves at its own pace, emphasizing enjoyment and flexibility over strict adherence to schedules, which is evident in daily interactions and the overall atmosphere of the islands. The name "Suva" originates from an ancient Fijian dialect and translates to "little hill," a nod to the city's unique topography that sets it apart from other regions in Fiji. This name not only highlights the physical landscape but also connects modern Suva to its rich indigenous heritage. The renowned FIJI Water is bottled from a natural aquifer (ground water) located in the Yaqara Valley. The purity and mineral content of this water make it highly sought-after, and its origin is a point of pride for Fijians. Visiting Suva, Fiji, you have a wealth of natural attractions to explore. Colo-I-Suva Forest Park offers lush rainforests, scenic hiking trails, and refreshing natural pools where you can swim and observe the diverse array of local flora and fauna. For adventure seekers and those interested in cultural immersion, guided river tubing excursions along the Navua River combine breathtaking landscapes with insights into local traditions. The city’s vibrant outdoor scene continues with strolls or runs through Albert Park, which provides panoramic views of Suva Harbor and is a favorite spot for both locals and tourists. Culture enthusiasts will appreciate the Fiji Museum, where fascinating archaeological artifacts and exhibits shed light on the history and traditions of the Pacific Islands. The bustling Suva Municipal Market is a hub of activity, brimming with tropical fruits, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of local goods. Exploring the market offers a true taste of Fijian daily life and hospitality. Delve deeper into Suva’s character with guided walking tours, stops at kava bars to sample the national drink, or day trips to nearby destinations like Dravuni Island, famous for its untouched beaches, crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming or snorkeling, and opportunities to shop for authentic local crafts. Suva's origins trace back to a Fijian village, originally situated where Thurston Gardens (formerly Botanical Gardens) now stand. After being destroyed by the Rewa people in 1843, the settlement was rebuilt and relocated to Korovou. The arrival of European settlers from Melbourne in 1870, spurred by the Polynesian Company’s development initiatives, marked a significant turning point in the area’s history. The British colonial government’s decision to move the capital from Levuka to Suva in 1877 was prompted by Levuka’s limited space for growth. The official transfer of administrative functions in 1882 signaled Suva’s emergence as Fiji’s colonial capital, and its subsequent designation as a municipality in 1910 paved the way for its expansion and eventual recognition as a city in 1952, incorporating surrounding districts. Today, Suva stands as the commercial and political heart of Fiji and the South Pacific, hosting regional headquarters for international organizations and nurturing a vibrant arts and fashion scene. The cityscape is a blend of contemporary and colonial architecture, reflecting its historical evolution, and its busy port serves as a vital hub for transpacific shipping. Suva offers an intriguing fusion of urban excitement and natural splendor. Its lively nightlife, cultural diversity, and status as Fiji’s political and economic center make it a dynamic destination. At the same time, the city’s proximity to the ocean and verdant rainforests provide a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle. This harmonious balance between modern city life and serene natural beauty creates a truly multifaceted experience, where you can immerse yourself in both the energetic pulse of “urban Fiji” and the tranquil charm of its surrounding landscapes. While in Suva a sense of anticipation filled the air. News spread quickly— “We have mail!” After months of waiting, the long-expected shipment had arrived, carrying with it pieces of home and reminders of loved ones. Each package, a treasure, some containing surprises we had forgotten we ordered, others holding gifts that made us laugh or smile. The excitement of opening boxes, discovering new pieces of clothing, finding little comforts, or a fun accessory brought a sense of joy. My favorite moment was unveiling a name plaque for my door—now, not only does my space feel more personal, but everyone knows exactly where I live, adding both comfort and a touch of belonging to our community. Our time in Suva draws to a close, the Odyssey sets course once more, gliding through the turquoise Fijian waters toward our next adventure. Ahead lies Lautoka, Fiji’s “Sugar City,” where we will spend two nights discovering yet another facet of this enchanting island nation. With the gentle sea breeze and anticipation in the air, we look forward to new experiences, friendships, and memories, confident that the spirit of Fiji—and the camaraderie found aboard the Odyssey—will continue to enrich our journey. |
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