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December 25-26, 2025 Marti Eicholz As the Odyssey glides overnight from the turquoise embrace of Bora Bora to the storied shores of Raiatea, the transition is marked by a rhythmic interplay of gentle lagoon waters and the occasional lively chop as we cross open passages. The journey itself feels like a quiet overture, setting the stage for the festive day that awaits us beneath the South Pacific sun. We awake not just to Christmas morning, but to an experience that transcends the calendar—a sunrise that unwraps the world anew, each ray of light a promise of adventure and discovery. The gentle rocking of the Odyssey cradles us in a sense of comfort and anticipation, the sunlight shimmering across endless blue waters, hinting at the magic that lies ahead. Every shared moment—be it laughter over coffee, excited conversations about the day's plans, or the simple joy of watching the horizon—feels heightened, as if the holiday spirit infuses each detail of shipboard life with warmth and possibility. On this special Christmas, our ship docks at Raiatea, an island steeped in history and natural splendor. Known as the sacred heart of Polynesia, Raiatea is a volcanic jewel, its rugged mountains and verdant valleys rising above a lagoon shared with the neighboring island of Taha’a. The island’s community of roughly 13,000 comes alive in celebration, blending Polynesian customs with Christian traditions in a distinctly island way. The air is fragrant with tiare flowers and palm fronds, festive decorations that transform the landscape into a tropical holiday wonderland. Ukulele melodies and the harmonious voices of “himene” hymns fill the air, while families gather for lavish feasts featuring beloved dishes like po’e (a rich, fruity pudding) and the freshest seafood, all enjoyed under radiant skies where the warmth comes not from fireplaces, but from the sun and the spirit of the day. Raiatea holds a unique place in the soul of Polynesia, cherished as the legendary homeland—Havai’i—from which ancient voyagers set out for distant lands like Hawaii and New Zealand. The island’s spiritual legacy is embodied in the Taputapuatea marae, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant sacred sites in the Pacific. Here, traditions run deep and stories linger in the stones, connecting past and present in a continuum of reverence. Among the island’s natural wonders is the rare Tiare Apetahi, a delicate white flower found nowhere else but the high slopes of Mount Temehani. This blossom, with its five distinct petals and evocative legends, is said to open with a gentle crack at dawn—a sound likened to the breaking heart of a woman from local myth. Its fragrance and beauty are matched only by its mystique and cultural significance, and its critically endangered status has led to strict protection, making any sighting a privilege reserved for the most respectful and fortunate visitors. Raiatea invites exploration on every level. Visitors can immerse themselves in history at the Taputapuatea marae, glide along the only navigable river in French Polynesia by kayak or paddleboard, or dive beneath the waves to uncover the haunting beauty of the Nordby shipwreck and vibrant coral gardens. Adventurers may venture inland by 4WD to seek out the elusive Tiare Apetahi, or embark on island-hopping excursions to Taha’a, famed for its vanilla plantations and black pearl farms. Every activity, from snorkeling to hiking, offers a chance to connect with the land and its people in a meaningful way. The atmosphere in Raiatea is an intoxicating blend of serenity and excitement. There’s a palpable sense of spirituality in the air, rooted in the island’s ancient marae and rich traditions, while the lush interior and pristine lagoon invite both contemplation and adventure. Whether you’re marveling at the coral reefs, tracing the paths of navigators past, or simply basking in the peace of an uncrowded paradise, Raiatea’s magic is both grounding and uplifting. Comparing this sacred Polynesian holiday to a typical Western Christmas reveals a striking contrast: here, the celebration is less about commercial trappings and more about spiritual connection and the rhythms of nature. Raiatea’s festivities are imbued with mana—the life force and energy connecting all things—emphasizing presence and reverence over material gifts. While Western holidays often center on bustling activity and gift-giving beneath winter’s chill, Raiatea offers a slower, more intentional celebration, rooted in ancient customs and set against a backdrop of lush, sunlit beauty. The day after Christmas the atmosphere in Raiatea, French Polynesia was filled with excitement and unexpected joy. Some shipmates were pleasantly surprised, receiving an invitation to attend the mayor's wedding, turning the holiday into a truly memorable occasion. Local traditions, vibrant celebrations, and the warmth of the community made the experience feel both unique and welcoming. Life aboard the Odyssey during this time feels utterly transformed. The boundaries between routine and wonder blur; each day is an invitation to savor new experiences, to connect deeply with the world and with fellow shipmates. In this extraordinary setting, the holiday spirit lingers long after the festivities end, illuminating every moment with a sense of discovery and joy. |
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