February 27 — March 1, 2025

Marti Eicholz

Due to unforeseen delays in refueling operations, The Odyssey is unable to make its scheduled stop at Ilhabela, Brazil. This change in itinerary means we must forego exploring one of Brazil’s most enchanting island destinations this time around.

Missing Ilhabela is a true disappointment, as the island is renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty and vibrant local culture. Ilhabela boasts stunning mountain vistas, lush jungle trails perfect for adventure seekers, and a culinary scene celebrated for its fresh seafood and regional specialties. The locals are known for their warmth, hospitality, and creativity, making every visit memorable. Picturesque fishing villages dot the coastline, each with its own unique charm and history, while the historic center offers a glimpse into the island’s rich past. Ilhabela is also famous for its more than forty pristine beaches — some untouched and perfect for peaceful solitude, others bustling with amenities for those seeking relaxation or adventure. The island is home to an astounding 365 waterfalls — one for every day of the year — each providing a refreshing escape as crystal-clear waters cascade through verdant rainforest canopies, offering visitors a sense of tranquility and renewal.

Beyond its scenic wonders, Ilhabela stands out as a model of environmental stewardship. Approximately 85% of the island is protected as a UNESCO biosphere reserve, safeguarding its unique plants and wildlife for generations to come. Sustainability is not just an initiative here; it is a way of life embraced by the entire community, reflecting a collective dedication to preserving this tropical paradise.

We hope that, in the near future, we will be fortunate enough to return and fully experience all that Ilhabela has to offer.

In the meantime, The Odyssey anchors 8 to 8.5 miles offshore from Paraty, Brazil, which is a tender port. This means we will travel to shore using the ship’s tenders, adding a touch of adventure to the arrival.

Paraty is beautifully situated between the sparkling sea and lush, green mountains, about 125 miles south of Rio de Janeiro. The town is framed by a stunning oceanfront, with hills covered in verdant vegetation providing a breathtaking backdrop.

Nestled on the Bay of Ilha Grande and surrounded by the Costa Verde — a vibrant corridor of tropical rainforest that hugs the coastline — Paraty is a gateway to secluded islands and emerald waters. The region’s natural beauty is matched by its tranquil ambiance, making it a haven for nature lovers and those seeking relaxation.

Paraty itself is recognized as a National Historic Landmark, with a population of about 43,000. Its compact size allows visitors to explore the entire town in a single day, taking in its colonial architecture, charming cobblestone streets, and lively cultural scene. Whether you’re interested in history, nature, or simply soaking in the local atmosphere, Paraty offers a memorable experience for all.

Paraty is a captivating town famed for its historic center, where colonial architecture seamlessly blends with breathtaking natural beauty. The town is a gateway to a world of adventure, offering everything from pristine beaches ideal for relaxation to exhilarating treks through lush tropical forests. Its backdrop of cascading waterfalls and towering mountains, with clear streams tumbling down to the sea, creates a setting that feels both intimate and wild — a haven for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike. The enchanting mix of scenery and history gives Paraty a unique charm, making it a true tropical paradise imbued with an exotic, colonial atmosphere.

Paraty is an enchanting town that seamlessly blends history, culture, and natural beauty. At its heart lies the picturesque Praça da Matriz, the central square that serves as the focal point of the old town. The historic center of Paraty is closed to motorized vehicles, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in a tranquil, timeless atmosphere. Instead of cars, horse-drawn carriages gently make their way over the immense, uneven cobblestones — more akin to boulders than stones — offering a comfortable and nostalgic way to explore, especially as traversing the ancient stones can be challenging on foot.

Meandering through the vibrant colonial streets, you’ll find rows of whitewashed houses adorned with brightly painted doors and lush vines of flowers spilling from every crevice. The ambiance is set by the melodies of old jazz drifting from street corners, the gentle flicker of gas lamps, and the soothing sound of waves echoing through the narrow lanes. The effect is mesmerizing — you truly feel swept back centuries, to a time when Brazil was a Portuguese colony. Every detail, from the 17th and 18th century architecture, much of it originally built by African slaves in the 1600s, to the vibrant colors and carefully preserved facades, adds to Paraty’s unique sense of magic and wonder.

As you wander further, charming bars, stylish restaurants, and eclectic shops invite you to linger and sample the local flavors. Be sure to try cachaça, the region’s renowned spirit distilled from sugarcane juice — the essential ingredient in Brazil’s iconic caipirinha cocktail. Each sip offers a taste of Paraty’s rich cultural heritage.

Shopping in Paraty is a delight, with an array of boutiques that showcase breezy linen garments, hand-painted china, distinctive decorative accessories, and unique trinkets you won’t find elsewhere. The town’s flair for style is evident in every carefully curated storefront.

Literature lovers will appreciate Livraria das Mares, a cozy bookstore offering a handpicked selection of illustrated books about Paraty and Rio, as well as works in English. The inviting backyard café is the perfect spot to relax with a good book and soak in the peaceful ambiance.

Just beyond the town, the dense forests give way to breathtaking waterfalls cascading down the mountains. The Toboga Falls — aptly named for its natural rock slide — provide a thrilling adventure for the daring. Locals, who have honed their skills over time, perform incredible stunts as they ride the slick stones into the cool, rushing water. Watching them is awe-inspiring, and the spectacle leaves a lasting impression on any visitor.

For a more tranquil swimming experience, continue on to Tarzan’s Pond, a serene spot perfect for a refreshing dip and a moment of relaxation. Just remember, the lush environment means mosquitoes are plentiful, so come prepared.

If the ocean calls, a short 40-minute drive south will bring you to Praia do Meio or Praia do Cachadaço, where natural swimming pools and stretches of soft, white sand await. These pristine beaches are ideal for sunbathing, swimming, or simply taking in the breathtaking coastal scenery.

For those who love a good hike, the trail up to Forte Defensor Perpétuo is not to be missed. Winding through bamboo groves and lush greenery, the path leads to a hilltop overlooking Paraty. From here, the panoramic view of the port and town below is simply unforgettable.

Paraty truly embodies a slice of paradise — a small beachside town where colonial charm, natural wonders, and a vibrant cultural scene come together to create an experience that’s both soothing and spectacular.

With a smile on my face, the Odyssey sets sail up the gorgeous, picturesque coastline with blue waters.

Copyright © 2025 All rights reserved

back to indexx-voyage.htm l next page