VVR-Port-60-Salvador-Brazil

March 10–13, 2025

Marti Eicholz

After an exhilarating and fast-paced adventure in Rio de Janeiro, we eagerly anticipated the tranquility of the open sea. The days at sea provided a much-needed respite, allowing us to recharge our spirits and gather our energy for the next leg of our journey. By the time we approached Salvador, Bahia, Brazil, we felt refreshed, enthusiastic, and ready to immerse ourselves in the rich history and vibrant culture this city is known for.

Imagine stepping into a place where vibrant traditions, breathtaking scenery, and a deep sense of history converge seamlessly. Salvador, the jewel of northeastern Brazil, is a city that embodies all these elements and more. Whether you think of sun-drenched beaches, the infectious rhythm of samba echoing through bustling streets, or the mesmerizing movements of Capoeira and Jiu Jitsu, Salvador brings these images to life. Picture sipping fresh coconut water along the shoreline or encountering a woman dressed in a striking white blouse, a vividly colored skirt that billows with every step, adorned with intricate beaded necklaces and a regal headpiece. All of these quintessential Brazilian experiences are woven into the cultural fabric of Salvador.

Salvador, the vibrant heart of Brazil’s northeast, stands as a living testament to centuries of cultural fusion, resilience, and transformation. Established by the Portuguese as their first colonial capital in Brazil, Salvador was strategically built atop a hill overlooking the Atlantic, mirroring Lisbon’s iconic landscape. From 1549 to 1763, it flourished as the nation’s capital and a bustling maritime hub, its economy deeply rooted in sugarcane production and the transatlantic slave trade. Over four million Africans arrived through Salvador’s port, bringing with them invaluable traditions, culinary techniques, music, dance, martial arts, and spiritual practices. These influences have become the very essence of Salvador’s identity, making it a focal point of Afro-Brazilian heritage. Even today, more than 80% of Salvador’s population traces their ancestry to Africa, evident in the city’s diverse faces, lively rhythms, and an enduring sense of pride. The unique cultural tapestry of Salvador is tightly woven with threads of syncretism, where Catholicism seamlessly merges with West African religious beliefs, honoring the forces of nature — earth, water, and forests — with vibrant festivals and rituals.

Today, Salvador has grown into a sprawling metropolis of 4.2 million residents. As you meander through its bustling streets, you’re enveloped by a palpable blend of European, African, and Indigenous influences that have shaped the city for over five centuries. The city itself is dramatically divided into two sections: the upper city (Cidade Alta), perched on a cliff, and the lower city (Cidade Baixa) at the water’s edge. These two areas are elegantly connected by the historic Lacerda Elevator, recognized as the world’s first urban elevator. A ride on this iconic structure offers sweeping panoramic views of Salvador’s stunning coastline and busy harbor, providing a unique perspective on the city’s dynamic landscape.

Salvador’s coastline is renowned for its warmth and serenity, boasting fifty miles of golden sand — one of the longest stretches in Brazil. The inviting beaches are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and immersing yourself in the tranquil waters of the Atlantic. Alongside the coastline, local vendors offer an array of delectable street foods, giving visitors a true taste of Bahia’s culinary richness.

The local cuisine is a celebration of flavor and history. Dishes like moqueca — an aromatic fish stew prepared with seafood, coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and cilantro — are culinary masterpieces that reflect the city’s multicultural roots. Another must-try is acarajé, a savory treat made from black-eyed peas, onions, shrimp, coconut milk, peanuts, and cashews, fried to perfection and bursting with flavor. These dishes are not only delicious but also serve as a delicious bridge to the city’s African heritage, rarely found outside Salvador.

Every February, Salvador erupts into a spectacular six-day Carnival, considered the largest street party in Brazil. The city pulses with Axe music — a dynamic fusion of Brazilian pop, African rhythms, and Caribbean influences. Parades, dancing, and vibrant costumes fill the streets, drawing millions of revelers from around the world to experience the infectious energy and joy of this iconic celebration.

For those seeking a deeper connection to Salvador’s cultural legacy, taking a Capoeira lesson is a must. This powerful blend of dance and martial arts was ingeniously developed by enslaved Africans as a means of self-defense disguised as dance. Today, Capoeira is celebrated as both a sport and an art form, symbolizing resistance, freedom, and community spirit.

The arts thrive in Salvador, exemplified by the Bale Folclorico da Bahia. Founded in 1988, this acclaimed folk dance company is dedicated to preserving and showcasing Bahia’s rich cultural traditions through electrifying performances. Their shows blend martial arts, dance, and acrobatics, all set to the pulsating rhythms and soulful chants of African music, creating an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of Brazilian artistry.

Wander through Salvador and you’ll notice colorful “wish ribbons” adorning handrails, fountains, and fences. According to local legend, if you tie a ribbon around your wrist and make three wishes — one with each knot — your dreams will come true when the ribbon naturally falls off. This charming tradition adds a sense of hope and magic to the city’s lively streets, inviting everyone to become part of Salvador’s tapestry of stories and dreams.

To further explore the city’s maritime heritage, visit the Museu Nautico da Bahia (Nautical Museum of Bahia). The museum houses a fascinating collection of underwater archaeological artifacts, navigation instruments, ship models, and exhibits detailing the geography, history, anthropology, and rich cultural tapestry of Bahia. This immersive experience offers invaluable insight into the forces that have shaped Salvador into the remarkable city it is today.

The Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia (Museum of Modern Art of Bahia) offers visitors a captivating journey through history and creativity. Housed within an ensemble of historic structures — including a petite church, an elegant manor house, a former sugar refinery, and the quarters where enslaved people once lived — the museum not only preserves these architectural gems but also celebrates the artistic achievements of Brazil’s most renowned painters, sculptors, and folk artists. The blending of these diverse elements provides a rich, immersive experience that evokes both the cultural vibrancy and the complex past of the region.

Embark on a leisurely walking tour of Pelourinho, Salvador’s storied upper city, affectionately called “Pelo.” This historic heart of Salvador bursts with energy, its streets lined with a kaleidoscope of colonial buildings awash in brilliant hues. Once the infamous site where enslaved Africans were publicly punished and sold, Pelourinho stands as the epicenter of the city’s layered, poignant history — a place where sorrow and resilience intertwine. Today, Pelourinho pulses with life, offering visitors a feast of stunning architecture, enticing restaurants, live music, dance, and art at every turn. Its vibrancy is unmistakable, though the echoes of its somber history linger beneath the surface.

The main square of Pelourinho achieved international fame when Michael Jackson chose it as the filming location for his iconic “They Don’t Care About Us” music video. One can only wonder what might have gone through his mind as he performed among the symbolic streets — was it just about the dance, or did he sense the deeper truths etched into the stones beneath his feet?

Salvador is home to over 365 Catholic churches — one for each day of the year — many of which are grand cathedrals and lavish mansions painstakingly built by the hands of enslaved Africans. These architectural marvels stand as both monuments to faith and silent witnesses to centuries of forced labor and suffering.

One particularly notable church, the Igreja da Sé (Old Cathedral of Salvador), holds a unique place in the city’s history. Erected in 1500 as Salvador’s first cathedral, it was eventually demolished in a bid to modernize the city and make room for a trolley line — a transportation innovation that was later abandoned in favor of cars. Ironically, today, the area is closed to vehicular traffic, leaving only memories of what once was.

Two churches in Salvador, the Church and Convent of São Francisco and the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People, encapsulate a dramatic story of opulence, oppression, and eventual triumph over adversity. Their histories reflect both the grandeur of colonial ambition and the tenacity of those who endured its harshest realities.

The Church and Convent of São Francisco, a baroque masterpiece built by enslaved laborers, is dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, the patron saint known for his humility and ascetic lifestyle. While the building’s exterior is tastefully restrained, stepping inside reveals a breathtaking interior lavishly adorned with gold leaf. Every inch of the pillars, vaults, and ceilings glistens with gilded splendor, prompting reflection on whether St. Francis himself would have approved of such extravagance. Regardless of the answer, the church’s beauty is undeniably awe-inspiring.

As with many colonial churches across South America, the São Francisco church was constructed and ornately decorated by enslaved Africans, who, after being forced to convert to Catholicism, were barred from worshipping within the very walls they built. These individuals were regarded as “subhuman,” subjected to cruel exclusion by the very institution that claimed to offer salvation. The profound inhumanity of such practices, especially when perpetuated by a place of worship, is difficult to fathom.

In stark contrast stands the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People, a striking blue sanctuary that took an astonishing hundred years to complete. Built through the tireless efforts of both enslaved and free Africans — who could only work on it during their rare moments of leisure, as their days were devoted to constructing churches for others — this church became their own sacred space. Their unwavering determination gave birth to a house of worship where they could finally gather and practice their faith. Strategically situated in the lower part of Pelourinho, the Church of the Third Order of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People remains a testament to resilience and communal spirit.

Salvador is a city like no other — its culture is bold, exuberant, and deeply rooted, stretching back five centuries. The city’s complexity, unpredictability, and dazzling colors keep visitors constantly engaged. With its blend of history, culture, and creativity, Salvador leaves an indelible mark on all who experience its magic.

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