April 20–21, 2025

Marti Eicholz

The Odyssey makes landfall in Cartagena, Colombia on Easter morning, a holiday deeply rooted in tradition and symbolizing renewal and rebirth. This historic city greets us with an atmosphere alive with festive celebration and the promise of new beginnings.

Upon arrival, we are welcomed by a vibrant tapestry of Colombian wildlife. Toucans, iguanas, howler monkeys, peacocks, black swans, flamingos, and many more regional animals create a magical first impression at the port’s oasis — an unexpected and delightful highlight of the journey. This award-winning sustainable oasis, which doubles as a zoo, sprawls across two and a half acres and is home to more than seven hundred animals representing seventy-four distinct species. Guests can also explore lush gardens showcasing native Colombian flora and even visit a replica emerald mine — a nod to Colombia’s rich mineral heritage. Aptly named “Oasis,” this garden paradise is often heralded as the most beautiful cruise port in the world.

Colombia stands as the fifth largest country in Latin America and boasts the second largest population of Spanish speakers worldwide. The nation’s geography is dramatic and diverse, featuring snow-capped volcanoes and mountain ranges that run through its heart, while tropical beaches stretch along the northern and western coasts. Uniquely, Colombia is the only South American country with shorelines on both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.

Renowned for its wealth of natural resources and dynamic urban landscapes, Colombia ranks as the second most biodiverse country on Earth. It holds the record for highest species concentration per area globally, and astonishingly, boasts more species of birds than both Europe and North America combined. The country is also a world leader in emerald production and is the third largest coffee exporter, reflecting its pivotal role in international trade.

Colombia’s rich cultural tapestry is woven with vibrant music, exemplified by internationally acclaimed artists like Shakira and Juanes. Shakira, celebrated as the “Queen of Latin Pop,” captivates audiences with her powerful vocals and eclectic musical styles, while Juanes, known for his pop-rock sound, is recognized for his dedication to social causes. The media landscape in Colombia honors national tradition; both radio and television stations play the national anthem daily at 6 AM and 6 PM, fostering a sense of unity and pride.

Among Colombia’s many natural wonders is Cano Cristales, found in the Serranía de la Macarena. Often called the “River of Five Colors,” Cano Cristales dazzles visitors with its bed transforming into vibrant hues of green, blue, yellow, black, and red from July through November, creating a truly breathtaking spectacle.

Cartagena itself is a thriving urban center in northwest Colombia, nestled between the inland hills of Bolivar and the pristine white sands of the Caribbean coastline. Its blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and historical significance makes it a must-visit destination for travelers seeking both adventure and inspiration.

The heart of Old Town is a marvel of compact charm, with its entirety easily crossed in just twenty minutes. Yet, within this small area lies an abundance of captivating attractions, ensuring that visitors could spend days delightfully lost among its labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets. These enchanting byways are framed by rows of vibrantly painted houses, each adorned with cascades of tropical flowers spilling from brightly colored balconies. Picturesque stone archways, grand colonial-era churches, and stately family mansions speak to a rich legacy where Spanish and Caribbean influences intertwine. The lively ambiance, steeped in centuries of history, feels almost magical, transporting you to another era. Shielded by formidable, castle-like walls, Old Town is not just a feast for the eyes, but also a guardian of Cartagena’s storied past.

One of the most unforgettable experiences in the Walled City is watching the sunset. As evening approaches, locals and visitors alike gather atop the western ramparts to savor the breathtaking spectacle of the sun dipping below the horizon, painting the Caribbean Sea with hues of gold and crimson. The sense of community and the beauty of nature combine for a truly memorable moment.

Just beyond these historic walls lies Getsemani, a neighborhood that once bore a reputation as the city’s rougher side, serving as a working-class enclave. Today, however, Getsemani pulses with creativity and culture, having transformed into a modern, trendy district celebrated for its exuberance and artistic flair. Like the Walled City, it is best discovered on foot, as you meander through its winding streets and alleys. Here, colonial architecture mingles with an explosion of street art — murals, flags, kites, umbrellas, and twinkling lights overhead create a kaleidoscope of color. Every corner reveals homes painted in brilliant shades, their walls and sidewalks serving as canvases for local artists. Lush tropical plants thrive along the passageways, adding to the neighborhood’s vibrant, welcoming atmosphere.

Rising above the city is the imposing Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, a testament to the ingenuity of Spanish military engineering. This formidable fortress dominates Cartagena’s skyline, its ramparts and labyrinthine tunnels inviting exploration. As you wander through its underground passages and scale its lofty battlements, you gain insight into Cartagena’s colonial history while enjoying sweeping panoramic views of the city and coastline below.

For a different kind of adventure, hop on a boat and journey to the Rosario Islands, an idyllic archipelago preserved as a natural reserve. The islands are renowned for their crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and sun-kissed sandy beaches. Whether you prefer snorkeling, diving, or simply basking in the sun, the Rosario Islands offer a peaceful oasis away from the city’s bustle, perfect for relaxation and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Modern life meets coastal bliss in the neighborhoods of Bocagrande and El Laguito, where sleek high-rises and upscale hotels line the shore. Here, you’ll find an array of stylish restaurants, boutiques, and lively beaches where you can soak up the sun and enjoy the refreshing ocean breeze. These districts provide a contemporary counterpoint to Cartagena’s historic heart, blending luxury with natural beauty.

Perched atop the city’s highest hill is La Popa Monastery, a 17th-century religious refuge that boasts a stunning chapel and a courtyard overflowing with vibrant flowers. From its vantage point, visitors are treated to breathtaking panoramic vistas of Cartagena and the harbor, making it a favorite destination for those in search of tranquility and scenic beauty.

Cartagena’s culinary scene reflects its multicultural roots, with Colombian cuisine fusing African, Spanish, and Indigenous flavors. Local specialties abound: try arepas, the beloved cornmeal flatbreads stuffed with savory fillings or sample the city’s fresh ceviche and coconut-infused dishes. Tropical fruits and seafood are plentiful, ensuring that every meal is a vibrant celebration of local ingredients and traditions.

The city’s museums offer a window into Cartagena’s diverse cultural heritage, shaped by Indigenous, Spanish, and African influences. One notable museum, located in a former bank, showcases dazzling gold artifacts created by Indigenous peoples — an homage to Colombia’s fabled connection to El Dorado, the legendary city of gold rumored to be hidden high in the Andes. Another significant museum is the Palace of the Inquisition, a somber relic of the Spanish Inquisition’s presence in Cartagena. Within its walls, exhibits detail the era’s grim history of persecution, torture, and censorship, yet the museum also highlights moments of resilience and hope that balance this darker chapter in the city’s past. Both institutions enrich ones understanding of Cartagena’s complex and fascinating history, offering perspectives that range from the magnificent to the macabre.

Museo de San Pedro Claver deals with slavery. Claver dedicated his life tending enslaved Africans in Cartagena, raising important moral questions, but also displaying beautiful pieces of Afro-Caribbean art. Not all Africans ended up in servitude forever, some managed to escape, walked long distances, and founded their own settlements, offering a life of freedom, even though under constant attacks from administration. It is easy to feel a curious disconnect between gloomy Cartagena as told by museums and the city’s happy life, living as if nothing ever happened. There is gloomy and there is happy Cartagena.

The lively and uplifting atmosphere is perfectly captured through music, especially by the energetic performance of pop singer Carlos Vives. Accompanied by the rhythmic beats of the tambourine, the melodic flow of the accordion, and the bright tones of the flute, Vives brings the song “La Fantastica” to life. This vibrant piece tells the story of Cartagena, skillfully weaving together the city’s rich history and heritage. Despite touching on darker aspects of the past, the melody is infused with joy and warmth, turning a somber narrative into an irresistibly cheerful celebration.

As our ship departs from one of the most stunning cruise ports in the world, I am greeted by the breathtaking panorama of the sea stretching out to the horizon, a brilliant blue sky overhead, and a kaleidoscope of vivid colors all around. The beauty of the scenery lifts my spirits and fills me with gratitude, reminding me how easy it can be to focus on the bright side of life in such an inspiring place.

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